Common Ailments of Chinese
Water
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Seen mainly in wild caught water dragons, but captive bred animals can be contaminated with internal parasites by cross contamination with other infected animals or through some food items.
The parasite load is generally worsened by poor import and pet trade conditions. Internal parasites in a newly acquired reptile who may be stressed and suffering from other ailments can become opportunistic and overwhelm the animal causing lethargy, lack of, or decreased, appetite, diarrhea or loose smelly frequent stool, and failure to thrive. I believe it to be one of the leading causes of death in newly acquired animals.
Please see Purchasing a Water Dragon and the Internal Parasite page for further information.
This ailment requires a visit to the vet, or at least a fresh stool sample being taken to the vet. The vet will determine what kind of parasites the animal might have and prescribe the proper medications to eradicate them. Over the counter meds, and medications bought in pet stores are usually not sufficient!
This is a very serious ailment that requires immediate veterinary attention of you suspect your dragon has MBD. The true name of this disorder is Nutritional Secondary Hyperparathyroidism. Causes include a poor diet low in calcium and or very high in phosphorus; insufficient UVB lighting by either inadequate exposure to unfiltered sunlight on a regular basis, or inadequate exposure to specially formulated FLUORESCENT TUBES that produce light in the 290 to 310 nm range (where UVB is located in the spectrum), or improperly set up fluorescent lighting; and/or inadequate heating (reptiles need to be kept at their proper temperature setting so that they may digest their food, and thus absorb the calcium and other nutrients in the food items properly).
Symptoms of metabolic bone disease include muscle tremors, spontaneous bone fractures, skeletal deformities, and inadequately calcified eggs. For more information seeCalcium Deficiency in herbivore and omnivorous reptiles the MBD page
Generally seen in Wild caught dragons that have been hurt during importation, or in water dragons that have been kept in either too small enclosures, or glass walled enclosures. Water dragons do not understand the concept of glass and will repeatedly bang their snouts against the glass (and screen!) while trying to get out of the enclosure. Snout damage and banging can lead to infection, mouthrot and major tissue damage. Severe injury can result in tissue being rubbed off, and even bone infection and bone death. The tissue and bone will not grow back if it is damaged. Preventing snout rubbing behaviour is the key to preventing such damage.
I have also created a page dedicated to recognizing snout damage and resolving the problems that cause it, please visit the Snout Rubbing- Effects of, and Prevention page for more information.
Most often seen in water dragons with snout damage, or systemic infections due to improper environment or stress. Please see the "Stomatitis (Mouthrot) Page. If this ailment is not taken care of properly at home or by a vet using prescribed medications it can lead to systemic infection and death.
Usually a sign of MBD or fractures due to MBD, or getting caught in inappropriate tank set-ups. Please see diet, Lighting, and The Enclosure.
Water dragons that are affected with this ailment will have hard swellings of the joint or digits that may eventually involve the entire hand or foot.
Please note that symptoms of this disorder are very similar to metabolic bone disease- only veterinary assessment will determine which disorder your animal is truly suffering from. Deformities may eventually occur that will result in problems that prevent normal movement. This ailment seems to occur most often in male water dragons.
No effective treatment has been found at this time. It is thought that a varied diet and the provision of clean water on a regular basis may prevent this disorder. I have written a page with more information about this disorder. Please visit my gout page.
Symptoms include loss of weight, listlessness, loss of appetite, and diarrhea. If your dragon exhibits these symptoms please take it to a veterinarian to have it's stools checked for protozoan, bacterial or worm infections. Your dragon could die if this is left untreated. Please see Purchasing a Water Dragon for further information.
Respiratory infections are usually caused by inadequate heat, and by being kept under stressful conditions. Reptiles often do a good job of not demonstrating obvious signs of illness until a disease has progressed to the point that it cannot be easily treated. Signs and symptoms of respiratory infections include reduced appetite, listlessness, swollen appearance of the body, and as the infection progresses gaping followed by occasional forced exhalations. If you suspect that your water dragon has a respiratory infection he should be taken to the vet, who will probably place him on antibiotics, and the cage temperature should be increased to 85 - 88 F around the clock until the symptoms subside.
A small percentage of female water dragons suffer from egg binding or dystocia. If you have a female water dragon or suspect that you have you should read the dystocia document, as all female water dragons are able to produce eggs whether they have a male companion or not, and if they can become gravid they can become egg bound. Adequate housing and temperatures, diet, calcium supplementation, exercise and the provision of an egg laying box during the breeding season (December to June- sometimes even longer) will go a long way towards preventing this serious ailment.
Mite and tick infestation is a common problem with water dragons, and other herps for that matter, that have been kept in poor conditions during shipping, and while being kept in the pet shop. When you bring your new dragon home there is a very high possibility that it may in fact have some ticks and or mites on it. If ticks and mites are allowed to flourish they can become quite difficult to eradicate, and may in fact stress your dragon to the point of it's becoming ill, not to mention that a very bad infestation of mites and ticks on your dragon could cause quite a severe blood loss, and skin damage. Please see the Mite and Tick eradication Page for further details.
Occasionally a water dragon may be purchased whose skin is infected by a fungal or bacterial growth. Fungal and bacterial infections are usually caused by being kept in too damp and enclosure and living in a poorly cleaned cage where fungi and bacteria can grow and spread in the warm moist conditions that they love.
It is very important to set up the enclosure properly. Water dragons need a humid environment, but proper ventilation is necessary to help prevent the build up of bacteria and fungi in the cage. Substrate may be slightly damp to the touch but should not be too moist. Water containers should be changed and cleaned daily, if the water is being filtered you might be able to go a few days without changing the water, but do remember water quality and cleanliness are very important in order to maintain the health of your animal.
The affected area's may have darkened swollen scales that are discoloured. Two of my dragons had a fungal infection when purchased and they had several dark brown swollen (almost appeared fluid filled) scales on their underside and tails. The scales may be lifted and or damaged in areas (Keep in mind that scale damage could also be caused by mites, ticks and or crickets in the enclosure).
If you suspect that your dragon has a fungal or bacterial infection you should take it to a qualified reptile vet for diagnosis. The vet will likely give you an antibiotic or anti-fungal cream to apply to the affected areas. Clean the enclosure thoroughly disinfecting branches and the water container with a mild bleach solution. Replace the substrate and any other cage furniture that is easily replaceable in order to limit the spread of infection. In conjunction with a topical antibacterial or anti-fungal ointment the dragon may be bathed in 80-85F chest deep water that has betadine (enough betadine to make the water a med. tea colour) in it for a half an hour per day for a couple of weeks. The spots should improve slowly over time, but it make take one or two sheds for the area to look healthy again.
Darkening of, obvious damage to, and loss of toes, spikes and the end of the tail can be the result of a number of problems.
Improper Shedding can result in the skin becoming stuck to a toe, spike or the end of the tail. If the skin remains stuck onto the appendage while the tissue below continues to grow the circulation to the area may become decreased and lead to dry gangrene, infection, and death of the tissue.
Breaks from falls or becoming stuck in tight areas can result in broken toes, or the end of the tail snapping off. The end of the tail may also snap off if grabbed in an effort to keep the struggling animal from getting away, or may even drop suddenly when the animal is frightened by something (although this last is least likely to occur with water dragons).
It is always wise to take your reptile in for a visit to the vet if there has been an unexplained fracture of the toe, foot or leg (for the animals sake!) because the break could be a sign and symptom of a more serious ailment such as Metabolic bone disease (often calcium deficiency). If your reptile is suffering from MBD it is best to catch it in the early stages before it becomes so serious as to cause irreparable damage (bent crooked back, misaligned jaw!) or death.
Exotic Animal
Formulary by Carpenter, Ted Yo Mashima, David J. Rupiper
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The 2nd Ed of this very popular pocket guide provides quick, convenient access to essential pharmacology information. Fully updated, it presents the latest medication and dosages for fish, reptiles, birds, rodents, amphibians, primates and other exotic species. What's more, appendices offer biologic and physiologic norms, antibiotic classifications and indications and conversion table.
Veterinary Drug Handbook
(Pocket Edition) by Donald C. Plumb
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This indispensable reference provides comprehensive coverage of drugs approved for use in veterinary species as well as nonapproved (human) drugs used in veterinary practice. Veterinary Drug Handbooks's one-volume comprehensive coverage of the systemic drugs used in veterinary medicine and an extensive appendix makes it an essential tool for veterinarians, veterinary students, pharmacists, veterinary and laboratory animal technicians, animal research facilities, animal researchers, animal...
Common Reptile Diseases
and Treatment
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This concise handbook includes individual chapters devoted to diseases of the most popular reptilian pets and treatment protocols for common diseases and disorders. Also offers information on starting a reptile-oriented veterinary practice.
Green Water Dragons,
Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks (General Care and Maintenance of Series) by
Philippe De Vosjoli
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Basic but detailed information about the care, diet, and health of green water dragons, sailfin lizards and basilisks.
Anoles, Basilisks and
Water Dragons : A Complete Pet Care Manual (More Complete Pet Owner's Manuals)
by Richard D. Bartlett, Patricia P. Bartlett (Contributor)
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Discussion of the general care of many species of anole, basilisks and water dragons. Excellent information regarding enclosures, cage building, and insect care and breeding.
Eat This Bug : A Guide to Invertebrate Live Foods for Reptiles and Amphibians
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This book is a guide for owners of reptiles and amphibians who feed insects and other live foods to their pets. Advice is offered for selecting , ordering and raising your own supply of live invertebrate foods. More than a dozen species of live foods are discussed. The book includes instructions on keeping cultures of insects, and recipes & diets for insects.
Feeding Insect Eating
Lizards by Zoffer, David Zoffer
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The proper feeding of lizards is important to their survival in captivity. Diet is one aspect of lizard keeping that many new lizard owners know little about, and their pets suffer as a result. This book provides lizard owners with plenty of information on the diets of insecting-eating lizards, including the right feeding techniques for making sure that their pets get the right nutrients.
The Guide to Plants for
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If you are thinking of adding plants to your reptile or amphibians terrarium this book might be of interest to you!
Terrarium and
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L. Frye
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Reptile and amphibian owners add a new dimension to their hobby when they design and build terraria that simulate the natural habitats of their companion animals. This book gives directions for a variety of terrarium options. You can build enclosures in spare rooms, glass tanks, greenhouses, outdoor pools, or virtually any other available space. With this book's help, you can also transform your terrarium into a scaled-down replica of desert, rain forest, semiaquatic, or woodland environment.
The Terrarium: With
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Here are detailed instructions for constructing both indoor and outdoor terrariums in different sizes to fit different needs. Books in the Complete Pet Owner's Manuals series present basic information for new or soon-to-be owners. Advice and instruction covers feeding, housing, health care, training, grooming, and much more. Texts emphasize pet care basics and are easy for all readers to understand. All books in this series are filled with high quality full-color photos and instructive line drawings.
Reptile & Amphibian Parasites by Eric M. Rundquist
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Loaded with good information and practical, sensible, easy-to-apply advice. Great for beginners, but even the pros can learn a lot from them.
Understanding Reptile Parasites : A Basic Manual for Herpetoculturists &
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An important manual for the reptile breeder. This manual takes the reptile owner beyond the simple task of care into the subject of why to prevent and how to treat parasites in our reptiles. The manual explains in simple terms the complexities of reptile parasites. It goes into the how-to of fecal floats, parasite identification and treatments. It takes the mystery out of the vet's back room. One of the shortest yet most useful chapters is "Hygiene and the Herpetoculturist". An important read for all reptile keepers and breeders.
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Which lizard might be right for you? Find out with this overview by the Bartletts, two of herpetology's most respected figures. This is a great book for beginner-intermediate lizard keepers; illustrations and diagrams on how to actually set up the terrarium for the lizards.
Loco for Lizards by Jim
Cherry, James Cherry
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This is a real find. Even if they have zero interest in reptiles, anyone who has curiosity and a sense of humor would enjoy this little book. The writing style is a combination of Dennis Miller's sarcasm, Bill Nye the Science Guy's mix of facts and fun, Monty Python's surrealism, and a pinch of David Sedaris's self-deprecation. A great airplane or lazy day read. Makes a great stocking stuffer gift for the readers on my list. Most amazing is this book's artful blend of solid information, interestingly presented and wacky fun. Great colorful graphics, too, including paintings by Hieronymous Bosch, Ed Mell, Maynard Dixon and others. Godzilla makes a couple appearances, as well.
Lizard Social Behavior by Stanley F. Fox
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This is an original, substantial, and long-needed contribution. The introduction places the subject in context and shows how lizards can provide unique information not readily available through study of other organisms. The book is logically organized, beginning with a focus on individual variation, moving to comparisons between populations, and finishing with species comparisons. Readers with a general interest in social behavior will be drawn to peruse other sections where they will find an abundance of additional interesting and informative material.
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